This post is about episodes in my Zambian experience that I
have encountered skin color and whiteness. I spell this out right away in an
effort to acknowledge the delicateness of this issue and I hope that my readers
will engage with my experiences with tolerance, compassion, but I also charge
them with holding me and my words accountable. I welcome comments and
criticisms about my word choices. I also hope each can turn to wonder and look
inward into their own lives and experiences.
Here goes.
I scare babies in Zambia. Not all babies, thank God, but
over and over again, waiting for my sister and brother at the local clinic, or sitting
on a pew at church, I find myself making googly eyes at babies, trying to make
them laugh or smile, and to my dismay, the baby turns wide-eyed, nuzzles into
their parents shoulder, and then lets out shrieks of fright. This is when the
parent leans over to me and says, “She’s never seen a white person before.”
Huh, I think. I honestly didn’t think about being the very
first white person a human being ever saw. I’ve never thought of myself as such
a novelty, so different. With a history of colonialism and whites coming to
Africa, I honestly didn’t expect such a hub bub about my whiteness. I mean this
is the year 2014! We’re getting over that race thing, right? (Keep reading…)
While babies show fear, others show disbelief, excitement,
and interest. I can’t walk a street in a compound of Lusaka without children
calling out to me in limited English, “How are you?” or endlessly repeating,
“Muzungu, muzungu, muzungu, muzungu!” (“White person, white person, white
person, white person!) I’ve had marriage proposals and much more. I’ve joked
that if I ever need a confidence boost, all I need to do is walk around in
Lusaka and I’ll feel like everyone loves me.
But I don’t actually feel like everyone loves me. I feel
different. I feel out of place. I feel like a thing, not a person. Many times
the comments carry the sting of feeling like I will never belong here.
I’ve talked to a few Zambians about this phenomenon. They
ask me if their dark skin would receive the same attention in the United
States. I tell them that it would
be seen as rude to blatantly point out someone’s skin color as they walked down
the street. I’ve never personally seen an equivalent to what I’m experiencing here
back home, and I think I would be even more shocked to see it on my own turf. But
as I think of my own country’s problem with skin color, I know that my
impression of American tolerance isn’t quite right. Sure my ego and identity
are at stake and shattered as I walk around Lusaka, but unlike Blacks suffering
from police brutality in Ferguson, MO, in my own country, my life is not in
danger because of my skin color. The police, even here in Zambia, will protect
me more, not less, because of my whiteness.
I have to constantly remind myself that the isolation I feel
by the comments I hear around here is a meager fraction of the isolation, let
alone brutality, blacks have felt at the hands of whites in Africa and the
United States historically and even today. Yeah, hearing muzungu makes me feel
uncomfortable, but maybe that’s the point. My discomfort is a reminder of my
privilege, but it is also a reminder of the severe segregation still gripping
this world.
Last weekend, I had the honor to stay at a cousin of the
Tembo’s in another a compound. After attracting attention in the market, when
we got home, the cousin reminded me, “People are just so excited to see a white
person in the compounds.” Whites normally just don’t go there, let alone live
there. I asked the cousin if she personally had ever known a white person. I
was surprised when she stopped stirring the pot of noodles to think and then to
say, “No, I don’t think so.” I was the first she had in her home.
The “firsts” of sight and of friendship, and the extremity
of excitement at my appearance makes me think that the uncomfortable initial
encounter with difference is normal and should be expected. The look of fear I
have inspired in babies says it all. They can’t help it. It’s their first
reaction. I’m not actually that scary, I swear, but their fear is very real. I
can’t fault a baby that has only known this world for a few months to react to
a stimulus they’ve never encountered in an unsure way. It’s natural. It’s
natural to catch your breath when you encounter something new. Maybe it’s even
natural to be so scared all you want to do is nuzzle into Momma and hope the
world turns back to normal.
Little do we know that “normal” includes many different
shades of skin, climates, foods, songs, worship styles, cultures, countries,
etc… “Normal” is not what we know when we are babies. We have learn that
difference isn’t so scary. We have to experience it. We have to take risks to
learn it. We don’t know what difference is until we’ve spread our wings and
looked up from Momma’s shoulder to double check this interesting person, and
maybe after one more quick snuggle, open our eyes and hearts to a new normal, a
new color, and new people.
If you think you are colorblind, if you think you are not
racist, could you just be nuzzling into your Momma’s shoulder and pretending
like you don’t have rational and irrational fears about difference? It’s ok.
I’m opening my eyes anew everyday and, let me tell you, it takes effort and
it’s scary and it’s certainly not as comfortable as a safe shoulder. But how
safe are we if our eyes our closed all the time? What are we missing?